That Texas Magazine

Friday, November 21, 2008

Luckenbach, Texas

Back to the basics...

by Deborah Dousay

 

Eight miles east of Fredricksburg. Take U.S.290 to Stonewall, then FM 1376 for just under 5 miles. Don't look for any signs...There aren't any. People steal them far too regularly for taxpayers to keep up with. But anyone in the area can, and will be happy to, direct you.

”Past the tishard, on the turnrow, watch for the turnbuckle; hang a left.” That is exactly what the old man gave me as directions, asserting,”Luckenbach really is a place, you know?”

Dual scenery on Ranch Road 1376 takes you back to a community started by several German-speaking families, including brothers, Jacob and August Luckenbach. It’s a picturesque setting, virtually painted by a blend of hills and bottomlands on Grape Creek, and a tiny tributary of the Pedernales River.

Mrs. Albert Luckenbach(Minnie Engel) established a store, saloon, post office,and the dance hall which all operate today while a cotton gin, taken by a flood in 2002 and remnants of a blacksmith shop that washed down the creek are vivid reminders of the once flourishing commerce that bustled here.

In 1971, Texas humorist and writer John Russell(Hondo) Crouch, bought the 10 acre settlement from Benno Engel, grinning smartly as he announced it was because “Dallas wasn't for sale.”

Kathy Morgan and Guich Koock soon partnered with Crouch to style a full- fledged town. Hondo called himself the “mayor” and “Clown Prince” of Luckenbach, and proclaimed it “a free state... of mind.” He successfully put the small community on the map.

Festivals and gatherings are tradition in this Texas town. Mud Dauber's Day, Hill Country Musician’s Jam, and The Cowboy Christmas Ball are just a sampling of festivities that take place here. Luckenbach is also a favorite hangout for motorcycle enthusists year-round. Probably the most recognized party of all-time is the original Willie Nelson 4th of July Picnic, which has literally brought in thousands each year from all over the world and all walks of life to celebrate a Texas-American tradition.

Country music fans may know of this little town from Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson's hit tune, “Luckenbach,Texas”, but make no mistake; it truly is a place that gets you “back to the basics” in a flash.

Whether it’s the wild west atmosphere, the bell that rings every time a Lone Star beer is sold, the nostalgic flavor of Texas, as only Texans can explain adequately, or the massive, historic oak trees that cover the grounds, you’ll find something that gets your attention. And once it does, there's a lot to keep you there and even more to bring you back.

A previous trip there allowed me the privilege to meet the late Sheriff Marge, who was known to reprimand the biggest of hulks when their “mouth overloaded their senses”, or stop you in your tracks when “right is right“ is the rule of the day. Her deep echoing voice could scare you to silence, or calm you with security. She is no longer there serving drinks, and corraling the rowdy crowds, but I believe her spirit lingers, and keeps the town alive – and in order. She still makes you feel like somebody...and,“Everybody IS Somebody in Luckenbach, Texas, which truly is so much more than just a song!

 

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